Friday 17 July 2015

Japanese pattern ensemble (and an improved skirt)


A comfy and practical little ensemble: a yoke-panel skirt in soft denim (pattern N from Linen Wool Cotton Kids) and the 'back ribbon tunic' - more of a top, really - from A Sunny Spot/Girls' Fashionable & Pretty Clothes, made in some sort of knit I found earlier this year at the Apollo Bay op shop.

The first time I sewed this skirt pattern it turned out way too big around the waist and I had to move the buttons right off the placket to get the thing to fit. It's a beautiful style, though, so I was keen to remake it with a few alterations. For a start, I added flat piping made from some striped jersey and cut the inside yoke from the same fabric. Most importantly, I added elastic to the waist. In case anyone else is after some ideas about how to do this, here's what I did:
  • Before stitching down the inside yoke, I sewed a strip of waistband elastic to the seam allowance inside the left side of the 'outer yoke'.
  • I folded the 'inside yoke' down and sewed a channel into the back part of the yoke while holding the elastic carefully inside it, making sure not to stitch it down.
  • I used an unpicker to open up a 1" hole in the right side-seam of the inside yoke, then threaded the elastic out through that hole.
  • I pulled the elastic out quite a bit, then cut it down and sewed some buttonhole elastic, double-folded, to the end
  • I hand-stitched the inside yoke to the gathered section of the skirt and added a button for the buttonhole elastic to fasten on to.   

(Please ignore the weird reflection on the middle button - I can assure you it looks exactly like the other two!)

Because the skirt has a side opening, the elastic can only be tightened on the non-opening side, but I find that this works perfectly well, and I will definitely be adapting any future 'yoke panel skirts' in the same way. The photo on the right shows what the back of the skirt looks like:


The top was much more straightforward. I used the denimy skirt fabric for the neckline binding/tie but did away with the hem facing - that is to say, I sewed it in, then decided it made the hemline too stiff and unpicked the whole thing. FUN. I ended up hemming the top with a double needle, which made it hang much better. Oh, and I made the sleeves full-length instead of just-above-the-elbow.


To prevent R from making hideous, sullen faces while modelling, I issued a tower-building challenge. She did pretty well.


...Then they fell down.


It was kind of funny watching R look for pockets in the skirt. It took her a while to figure out that there aren't any!

The whole outfit was made with fabrics I already had lying around. I didn't even have to buy buttons! Surely this virtuous sewing behaviour entitles me to a fabric-buying binge in the near future...?

10 comments:

  1. I can't tell you how much I love this whole outfit. Blue, stripes, denim and Japanese patterns all adds up to perfection. The top does look like a tunic in the shape at the hem, it's a really pretty A line by the look of the side on pictures.
    I love that skirt, the flat piping is perfection and adjustable elastic is the ideal solution fir those of us who sew after bedtime.
    I'll volunteer to take these off your hands when they're outgrown. :) so lovely.
    Her hair looks great up like that and nice photos courtesy of prop distractions. I need a bit of that I think.

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    1. Thanks for your lovely comments, Shelley. A is most welcome to this outfit once it's outgrown, although I suspect the skirt will last a good few years with that adjustable waist :)

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    2. If we both remember then it's a deal!

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  2. Aha! I have the skirt's pattern too! Thanks for tips, Marisa. I think if I make this skirt, I'll add elastic band too since my daughter has slim type figure. I also like your fabrics choice - denim and blue stripe - they are perfect match! :)

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    1. Thanks Yeka :) The skirt is quite a large fit so the elastic is essential for slimmer waists, I think. And that way it can be worn for longer, too.

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  3. What a gorgeous outfit! I love how you adjusted the skirt waistline. Both pieces compliment each other so well! I add adjustable waist to just about everything that I want to stay on LM's waist haha And I am soooo going to steal... I mean borrow ;) your block tower building idea for the next photo shoot ;)

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    1. Thanks Jenya! Now that I've finally bought some buttonhole elastic I guess I'll be making everything adjustable too. And you're most welcome to borrow the block prop idea - it worked so well I'll probably be repeating it myself :)

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  4. What a beautiful ensemble!! I especially love the how you made the waist adjustable. I've often wanted to do that but couldn't quite figure out how. This is great!

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    1. Thanks so much, Emi :) This was my first time altering a skirt to be adjustable, and while it's really not difficult, it did require a little more thought due to the skirt having a side opening.

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